Wednesday, October 31, 2018
Wednesday, October 24, 2018
October has been a great run of swells for Hawaii. Last week we had our first big country swell, along with back to back South Pacific swells for town, keeping every surfer busy. The hardest decision to make was where to go surf. Lately, I have been on my school grind. With classes three times a week, I need to stay close to campus. However, my classes do not start until the afternoon so I surf every opportunity I get before and after. I wake up a few hours earlier to get a head start on my day and go surf. Typically, I go check a few spots and analyze their conditions and size to sum up the best spot to surf. Last week, Thursday was different. Diamond Head was the biggest I had ever seen it and there was no time to check other spots. Generally, a mushy point break is ideal for longboarders and beginners. Now there were tree sized rights pumping across a 200 yard section. Two hours before class, I had no time to waste. I slathered on my greasy sunscreen and grabbed my typical country, step up board for the action. I ran down the cliff as fast as my feet could take me. In a matter of moments I was in the water, battling my way out to the lineup. Diamond Head was producing waves so big and perfect, I couldn’t believe I was on the south shore. I was in hog heaven and got some of the best waves I had all summer. Needless to say, I was a little late to class.
Thursday, October 18, 2018
I woke up today and looked out my window. Minimal swell and strong winds did not make for the ideal surfing conditions. Therefore, it was deemed a golf day. I rallied my golf gear and cold beverages and headed to the east side of the island to a cool local course named, Bayview. This modified course has a great vibe with unbeatable prices. The scenery is astonishing at the golf course, with a perimeter of rigid mountain peaks and vast ocean views making one feel like they are walking on a beautiful hike. The course itself is in good shape, with fast, well-groomed greens. The layout of the course is creative and challenging for any golfer. Large gaps between the tee box and narrow fairways can plague the score of a golfer who produces errant shots. Overall, the course is beautiful regardless of the players score. I had an especially good round, playing bogey golf throughout. I even had a birdie!
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Friday, October 12, 2018
Today I got a call at 3:45 in the morning. I rubbed my eyes and looked at my phone. The call was from my friend Matt, and I knew he would be calling only for one reason. He wanted to go fish! Matt owns a nice 28 ft Hawaiian Hawk fishing boat and fishes only when the weather and conditions are optimal. I knew it was my chance to finally deckhand, and the word "no" was not in my vocabulary. I answered the call and agreed to his terms. I began gathering my things, slowly regaining consciousness from the deep slumber I was awaken from. Beer, water, chips, poles- did I forget anything else? I quietly crept out into the morning darkness trying to not wake up anyone in my house. I drove to meet Matt at Waianae Harbor, where we would launch his boat. It is basically on the other side of the island, but with zero traffic I cruised along. I met up with Matt in the parking lot near the boat launch. He was pumped up and probably already on his 3rd cup of coffee. I immediately started helping him prep the boat while talking story about what he's been up to. After all the gear, beer, and snacks were packed, we were ready to go.
We spent the day chasing bird piles and trolling around buoys approximately 25 miles out. Deep sea fishing is an exciting game of patience. One has to wait for the action to happen, but when it does it's all hands on deck! As one outrigger snapped, it became a clear indicator that we had a Hanapa'a and there was a big fish on the line. It became an arm wrestle with the fish, battling him to get closer to the boat. After about 30 minutes of Matt I and taking turns reeling in the fish and steering the boat, we finally began gaining ground on him. When the fish got close, I got a view of him and his substantial size. It was a Sailfish and he was estimated at around 170 pounds. Matt came in like a viking warrior and slammed his gaff into the fish to secure its head. My heart pounded. I secured the pole to the boat and ran over to grab the rope gaff to secure the fish's tail. "Hurry, hurry before the f****** sharks come," Matt screamed as he held the unstable gaff. The gaff I grabbed had a grappling hook at the end of the rope. I ran over and didn't hesitate to chuck the hook to secure the fish. "Alright, at the count of 3 we both pull up!" Matt struggled to say. Once I heard the number 3, with a synchronized motion, we both pulled up with all our might. The fish flopped onto the deck. We let out cheers and profanities at the accomplishment. After that, we called it a day as Oahu was a faint landmark in the distance. Our ride back to the harbor was nothing but laughter and excitement. We ended up selling the fish and our other bounty to the Honolulu Fish Market. We made some good money and had some wild laughs. It was not a bad day on the water.
Thursday, October 4, 2018
Today I took my dog, Tiki, to the beach. Trust me, that is no easy task. We went down to Sandy Beach, which is near my house. Even though Tiki is huge, he is only 10 months old and is still considered a puppy. Tiki is a super friendly dog, so I didn't mind letting him off the leash so he could run around and enjoy the beach. He chased sand crabs and ran after sticks that I threw. Overall, it was good fun. However, when I went to bodysurf a wave, he chased after me into the rough water. When I noticed him following me into the lineup, a solid set came through. Tiki is a good swimmer and rather strong, but it was dangerous because he doesn't know how to duck dive. I scrambled over to grab him before the head high wave swallowed us up. Once I grabbed him, Tiki and I got fully barreled. He was calm and I had a sturdy stance. We didn't get as pounded by the wave as much we should have gotten. This picture was taken right after. I would say we both had a good day at the beach.
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