October has been a great run of swells for Hawaii. Last week we had our first big country swell, along with back to back South Pacific swells for town, keeping every surfer busy. The hardest decision to make was where to go surf. Lately, I have been on my school grind. With classes three times a week, I need to stay close to campus. However, my classes do not start until the afternoon so I surf every opportunity I get before and after. I wake up a few hours earlier to get a head start on my day and go surf. Typically, I go check a few spots and analyze their conditions and size to sum up the best spot to surf. Last week, Thursday was different. Diamond Head was the biggest I had ever seen it and there was no time to check other spots. Generally, a mushy point break is ideal for longboarders and beginners. Now there were tree sized rights pumping across a 200 yard section. Two hours before class, I had no time to waste. I slathered on my greasy sunscreen and grabbed my typical country, step up board for the action. I ran down the cliff as fast as my feet could take me. In a matter of moments I was in the water, battling my way out to the lineup. Diamond Head was producing waves so big and perfect, I couldn’t believe I was on the south shore. I was in hog heaven and got some of the best waves I had all summer. Needless to say, I was a little late to class.